Sinj - Inland on the way to Mostar, Bosnia - The Six Hundred Horsemen

Also near the Dalmatian Coast, but inland, in an area on the way to Mostar, Bosnia, is this town of the 600 horsemen.

Arrive at Sinj (don't confuse with Senj, to the north) from Sibenik. This is a sidewinder route to Mostar that would be less mountainous than the direct "up." Thank you, B&B in Split for the tip.

The clue to this town's past is this jouster, representing the contests that commemorate a great victory of the townsfolk over the Turks in the 1700's. There is a festival for this, in early August. A little video of the festival is at www.geocities.com/sinj_grad/.

We were there at the wrong time of year, but enjoyed the story: the Turks conquered Sinj in the early 1500's, lost it to the Venetians in about 1700, and tried to recapture it in 1715. But suddenly 600 horsemen from the town galloped out of Sinj onto the battlefield, and the Turks were turned back.

The festival reenacts the battle - riders, dressed in traditional costume, parade and then compete, trying to spear a large suspended iron ring - much noise, cheering, song and pounding hooves, we hear. "Sinj Through the Centuries" at www.delmacijz.net/sinj/sinj_4.